Fashion Police: The Mantua Gown

An early mantua, dating from 1698. Note
how the train is still allowed to trail on the ground.

Hi there!

Sorry it's been so long since my last post - I've been doing a MASSIVELY stressful English controlled assessment (don't even ask how it went). 

Today, we'll be exploring the iconic look of the 1690s - the mantua gown. 'Mantua' is a corruption of the French word 'manteau', which means 'coat'. It is worth noting that contemporary letters also spell 'mantua' as 'manto', which sounds the same as the French word. The mantua came about in the 1680s and was originally meant to be comfortable relaxation wear that would be a break from the rigid corsets and bodices that were mainstays of women's fashion at the time. The dress had three-quarter length sleeves that ended in detachable lace cuffs that were known as 'engageants' and the long skirt was usually pulled back to show off the richly embroidered petticoat worn underneath. It also included a long train that was originally left down but by 1710 the fashion was to pin it up behind. Mantuas dating from this period had embroidery on the train that could be seen when it was pinned up.

Despite its origins as an item of undress, it soon evolved into wear that was acceptable in formal situations - even at Court. On the occasion of King William's birthday in 1696, Princess Anne (later Queen) wrote to her friend, asking whether or not a mantua would be acceptable at the celebrations. She felt that it was acceptable if the entertainment was to be a play but not if it was a ball.

An example of a court mantua of exaggerated width, 1744.

By the middle of the 18th century, mantuas bore very little resemblance to the original garments and were worn only at Court. They were ridiculously wide, representing the extremes of fashion at the time and by 1780 the what was known as a mantua had none of the complicated folds and drapes of the mantuas of the 1680s, only a length of fabric at the back of the dress.